Amir Mehdi

Amir Mehdi was a Pakistani mountaineer and porter who was born in the Hasanabad village of Hunza Valley in 1913. He was part of the team that made the first successful ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953, and of K2 in 1954 with an Italian expedition. He was known for his strength, endurance, and courage in the high-altitude climbing. He also helped other climbers and shared his knowledge and experience. He survived a night at the highest open bivouac - 8,100 metres - on K2 in 1954, along with the Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti, but lost all his toes to frostbite. He spent eight months in hospital recovering from the ordeal. He was not given proper recognition or compensation by the Italian team, and was later awarded some medals by the Italian government. He died in 1999 at the age of 86. He is remembered as one of the best Pakistani mountaineers and a hero of his nation.